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Bob said: Just to be clear.... The propo. valve isn't a trick.., they're on most every veh. from the factory. The intent is to prevent braking lock-up/skid on one end, while the other end is still rolling.. Your EB likely/hopefully has one. Oh yeh, I know - I even know where it is :o...

Hi All, I have steering wheel off (dash renovation). The head of the steering column has a copper spring loaded pin - which clearly is supposed to depress and make a connection. What is it for ? I am assuming its part of the original Horn mech ?? My Grant Wheel has a circular copper back...

OK. Grease gun. Grease. Rod ends greased. NOTE. TROver makes greasing after install much harder... doh! :mad: Monza. :)>-

Karl, FYI: The T-Stat regulates the temp at which coolant starts to circulate to the Rad for cooling. Most folks prefer the 180(degrees) version - which means the coolant gets up to 180 before the T-Stat opens and sends coolant to the Rad. Dont mean to be preachy - I had no clue what the...

NIce intervention Ron. Perfect example of the power of a forum. :) /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> "...Just adding discs can be a disaster waiting to happen. They may feel better in normal driving, but in a situation requiring hard braking The unbalance can throw the...

Bob, Yeah - I think we are all in violent agreement about the fact that all brake solutions will work if in proper condition. Some have more power, not essential, but more is more to some folks. Some cost way more to implement. All need to be in proper condition to work effectively. Often...

Hey Scodge, You know - most people seem to end up with Disks AND the Booster - which seems a little overkill - for my needs. I never thought too much about Disks and NO booster - you have now got me thinking... I actually have "most" of a disk upgrade sitting here in a bin - just need...

Hey 1st Timer, Did you get your dash off ? I just removed mine - so if you stil need help with those pesky controls - lt me know. Monza. :)>-

Okay - I gues I never replaced a rod end before... :blush: New ends arrived today from TBP. Do I need to fill them up with grease before install - or are they pre greased. (the top grease nipple is not yet attached). Thanks! Monza. :)>-

So I took the dash off - blimey!! Now I want to clean up the steering column. I need to remove the shift lever - and the collar (cone) it goes in to. I cant budge the pin - and dont want to hammer it. Any guidance would be great. Pic attached. Thx, Monza. :)>-

Agreed. I need to do some smart measurings. Several good machine shops near me. Keep you posted. Monza. :)>-

TBP came up with a brilliant solution: Buy two p.side ends and an adjustable sleeve. Cut the existing rod at d.side and get it threaded for the adj sleeve. Much cheaper Ajustable both sides Keep existing DL tapered joint - no drilling. Fantastic. I feel an 'A Team" moment coming on...

Oh brother you hit the nail with that. I figure a new set of ends with a new pair of shims - will cover me - BUT I had not realized that the DL joint had been drilled and sleeved - balls! :angry: What is the drilling process ? do I need one of those $90 taper drills - or do I use a regular...

Okay Bob, I pickled the tie rod off. :D/ Both ends move around in the captive socket - much more than the drag link 'end'. I figure they are shot. I managed to get two shims from each knuckle. The interior of the knuckle hole is still smooth - and feels like there is a 'liner' in there -...

Right then, sounds like a plan; you hold it and I'll hit it! :lol: back in a bit. Monza :)>-

Dang. SO - do I need some kind of "pickle fork" tool - is that a specialist tool or can i get it at Kragen ? I think I also heard maybe of using a puller... I havent got one of those either tho... :o) I dnt have sleeve at both ends - so its going to be either: 1. new standard tie rod 2...

I read S_Bolts19's excellent post (http://broncozone.com/topic/15872-stone-crusher-steering-upgrade/). Best fix would be a new Heim setup - BUT I was hoping not to have to shoot $300+ on this... I need to figure out what to check to see whether its a bad TRO install thats causing the wobble...

Hey Bob - added as youtube links - hope that works... Monza. :ph34r: /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> P.side move by hand >> "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTNp4tUfUUA" dragjoint move by hand >> "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gTBwPtNOoRA" D.side...

Movies attached - I hope. I have removed castle nuts so shaft is clearer. Moving p.side rod end by hand Moving drag link joint by hand Steering p.side rod end Steering d.side rod end let me know what u think. Thx, Monza. [-o< end_move_hand.MOV dragjoint_move_hand.MOV...

Bully Bob Ahhh.., Now we're gett'n somewhere..! Agreed. If the shaft part that goes thru the knuckle hole (with castle nut on it) is wobbling in that hole...it's likely it was not set-up right., or it's worn out. Proper way is to taper ream the knuckle hole fr. the top down. Then install...