Search results

The engine i finished for my friend is a mostly stock bottom end 302 with flat top pistons, .479 lift crane cam, stock heads with mild porting and stock valve train with a performer rpm air gap intake and 650 cfm carb with msd ignition, and headman headers. The gain was about 90-100 horse. The...

The biggest problem i have found on those early smog engines is the cam and intake. A good cam will liven up the engine alot but do not go any more than a .479 lift with a 110 lobe separation if you are keeping the stock compression in the engine. A good intake would be an edelbrock performer...

Thanks for that. There are alot of good strait six's out there. I know i would like to play with the ford barra from australia. This was more a general question more than a for what application.

I can understand that. I do alot of my own paint work and its very time consuming.

Nice job! Looking good so far.

That is one slick idea. I have seen people use pipe as a bumper but never have it double as an air tank. Would hate to see the car that hits that bumper. The bumper would probably only get a scratch. That will be one hell of a hunting rig.

How did it burn up? I think it would be something good to know as a reference. I have a set of 410 FE mercury marauder manifolds and you right they are a little bit bigger but not by much. I think the GT had different manifolds depending if they were mustang, fairlane or even cop cars. I do tend...

Yeah i am just not sure that is even a bronco part. It might have just been mixed in from some thing else. It has happened to me before when i bought a basket case.

Nice work so far! It is a lot of work but it is always worth it in the end when you see it done. As for the digital gauges i am not a big fan of them for the most part. The only ones i like have been from Dakota Digital but the cost is a little to much for most people at almost $1300 but they...

If the flat side that's facing your hand is open then its likely part of a defrost vent under the dash. Also could be part of an air intake. As for what it's out of not sure.

Those 300 Six's are great engines and are very versatile. The first bronco i ever owned was 68 with a 300 six with a 3 speed. I have even used one in a rat rod. A 96 460 efi bronco would be interesting.

I know on mine it was part of a handling package that also included a bigger sway bar.

Another project i got done with is a full port and polish on a set of windsor heads for a friends race car. Even did some combustion chamber work on them. Here is a side by side of the done head and the other one that i still had not done yet. A small piece of advice for some one porting heads...

For me i pretty much like all the ford engine line up. Though my overall favorites are the FE series and the 385 series engines. I run them in several trucks and have been good work horses. The only trouble i have had is my 460 had collapsed lifters from sitting so i am using that as an excuse...

I decided to start this thread since i was enjoying my conversation with johnnyreb but didn't want to take over someone's thread. Tell us what is your favorite engine and why, If you have had problems with a certain type of engine and what it was, what you did to solve it and just general info...

Now cost is something we all think about so here is a rundown of the cost for the junkyard method. The Axel was $160 But you should replace the bearings and seals as well as the u-joint in the axel. That cost me $180 for those parts. And last is the locking hubs. I chose to replace the ones...

There is one more way to do this and that is to buy a conversion kit. Jeff's Bronco Graveyard has a kit to do this that comes with everything needed to do the swap. The kit is around $700 but it is all new parts and even comes with new locking hubs.

Now all that info is for if you want to source parts from the junk yard. I got an entire TTB from a 90 F150 from a local junk yard for $160. This worked well for me since it gave me every thing to do the swap. And although the brake rotor's are a little rusty from sitting it had new rotors on it...

Lastly is one that should be avoided. That is the Dana-Vemco V Drive. From the knuckle out it resembles the Dana 44 but the parts will not interchange with anything so this should be avoided for parts. Its easy to spot due to it having a diff on each side and 2 drivelines.

Another thing to watch out for is the stub shaft end at the hub since there are 2 types. One takes a c clip while the other takes bolts to retain them. You will mostly run into the c-clip type but should be aware of the other one.