Search results

Hey, been wrestling with an issue on this beast for a month whenever i have the time... It quit on me at a gas station a while back. It will not start. I turn the key, the power comes on but i get no crank! Sypmtoms i had before- -upon acceleration the battery light on dash would flicker -if...

I appreciate the advice but my redneck duck tape setup seems to have worked lol

Ok, pretty sure the TB is good and IAC is good.(cleaned it out for good measure) I sprayed B-12 almost everywhere under the hood and could not find any vacuum leaks. For now I'm going back to the only code I pulled which was #34. Voltage checks out excellent on EVP and  Vacuum regulator.  So...

Sorry about the delay. It's been Murphys law working on this truck.  What I didn't realize in my last post is that there was a nylon fuel line inside of the rubber "fuel line". I got that all patched up and no more leaks. Truck is still running like shit though. Managed to get the "spark...

So I removed the Alan wrench and changed out my lower intake gasket. It took awhile because the 2 front bolts on the lower intake busted. It looked like whoever worked on this before me filled the the threading located in the heads with some sort of silicone/jb weld. Had to drill and tap. So I...

Long story short, I just changed my egr tube and was about to start putting the upper intake back on when I thought I would make sure my FPR was on tight enough. That's when I dropped my Alan wrench down one of the runners....like a dumbass I didn't cover the lower intake up lol.  So I pulled...

After looking at the cost of new injectors I have changed my mind lol. Do you guys have any recommendations for which company I should go with for a rebuild kit?

I ended up getting it out. There was a bunch of gunk in the head so I just hammered the t40 bit on it a little and it came out easy.  But unfortunately I had a dumbass moment.... I was just getting ready to put everything back together when I decided to make sure my FPR was on tight enough.Then...

Anyone got any advice for removing the torque bolt on the upper intake? I can fit in and everything  I just can't get the sob to budge. I've got it soaking in pb blaster and wd 40 atm. I'm worried I'm going to strip it if I keeping trying

I'll give that a shot tommorow mo4nig

No its duralast. I go to autozone because they have the best rewards program. You actually get points when renting tools too XD I would love to stick with motorcraft but I'm just broke at the moment :/

Nope, and you will never guess what brand it is XD

Also I'm pretty sure I figured out why my truck is stalling out and acting out of time. When I bought the new distributor it came with a new tfi,rotor,and cap. I chose not to trust the TFI and i Kept the one I recently purchased. Turns out the contact point on the rotor decided to break and...

Ok that makes sense. I ordered a new one online for $20(it was $50-70 in store) I tested the vacuum canister and it would not hold vacuum. Just ordered another one online as none of the parts stores around me had it in theyre system. Hopefully this will do the trick... I'm in the process of...

Here are some pictures of the tube. I assume it's suppose to be 2 pieces right?

Only other thing I've noticed is that I can see some exhaust leaking out of the tube  leading to the intake. Does that count as a vacuum leak (sorry about the "noobness")

Ilol probably give that a shot. To be honest walmart just opened a gas station up and I've been going there.  Also i just ran a engine off test and I'm still pulling codes 10 & 34"C". Could the egr seriously be causing all of these issues? I don't see how I could still be pulling codes for...

After looking at it again I figured out I was rushing to judgement and it wasn't corrosion.  I replaced my egr vacuum regulator after testing it and found it had no ohm resistance. Replaced the egr, black TAD&TAB(couldn't find source of yellow and peach lines), and the red vacuum regulator...

So I got the new tps but found I wasn't getting the 12v from the green wire like I should be...which was weird because the old one was getting the full 12v....if it's another defective part Im going to swear off duralast.... I decided to check out the connection between the harness and the pcm...

Well I'm thinking it can't be the PIP sensor because I just installed a new dizzy. I assume PCM=EEC IV right? Ill try shorting it out like you did tonight. I'm sure this computer is stock and from what I've heard they kind of degrade over time...I'm not sure if I follow you about the yellow...