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made some progress, on the BLK/PNK wire its shorted to ground, with both the wiper's park switch disconnected and the interior switch and intermittent module. as i see in the diagrams, it shouldn't be grounded with both ends of the wire unplugged. so now, its play the game of... where's the...

Having a tough time with this one, pretty decent at electrical troubleshooting, I have the ford FSM/EVTM for 1990 F series trucks. (mines an 88, but close enough) I have to be missing something here. Pinpoint tests told me to replace wiper motor, did that and it performs same as original motor...

my 77 F250, i put a bunch of crap on the roof. use good sealant, windshield urethane is great stuff. clean surfaces, goop it on the underside too, on washers and nuts. minimize holes drilled. my truck is leaky AF from my negligence over the years, largely because of inferior sealant and...

for sure. i had a Subaru which i picked up 7ISH years ago. it was wrecked and left to rot in front of the warehouse where i worked by my coworker, he sold it to me for cheap. got it running and went to fill with gas and it spilled fuel everywhere, saw the same thing. i replaced the filler neck...

i have a 90 truck FSM if that would be of use to you its a monster PDF but yeah. feel free to PM me. yeah if the windshield seal is bad, water could drool down into the kickpanel and could end up in the computer. i have never personally seen it, but i could see how it could happen. i wouldn't...

i believe, IIRC the solenoids are powered on the positive side by the EEC relay and controlled by the computer on the negative side. which means between ground and one side of the EGR TAB TAD solenoids you should see battery voltage, with key in on position regardless of engine running. the...

Ok, so. replaced this steering column once already, the guts in this one are falling apart again, specifically the ignition switch actuator parts. I have to tilt the steering column down to start the truck, the parts bind up otherwise. it's not long for this planet. Do i just try to find a...

Forgive me for clarifying here, this is the component which the shifter linkage connects to externally on the transmission? if so i'd recommend a junkyard. AOD transmissions are somewhat common. the part itself however i don't think will be easy alone to find.

You have a tricky one here. I literally just posted a 2G to 3G upgrade walkthru today, so i'm keen on the electronics side of this. Immediately what comes to mind is a failing alternator, (ripple current/failing diodes internally can cause strobing of the alt lamp. but we need more info. can you...

I'd confirm by removing the ignition switch and letting it hang underneath the dash. Use a scerew driver to ensure the switch is in the off position. remember that ford's switch sequence is ACC, OFF, UNLOCK IGN, START. pulling switch up toward the steering wheel should get you to ACC position...

Part 3, Voltage regulator wiring and cable management: Here i'm holding up the original wire harness from the 2G alternator. all the tape and split loom tubing needs to be removed from the wire harness, but leave the white-ish fiberglass heat shield wrap that's closer to the 3pin connector, we...

Part 2: installing the new 3G alternator and main V+ wire/circuit breaker: Alternator clocked in the correct direction and the three case bolts secured now, we can bolt it on! The top bolt from the original alternator is not the right size, the new alternator has a metric M8 by 1.25 thread...

Alrighty, today we will be doing the 2nd gen to 3rd gen alternator switcheroo on a 1988 Bronco1 with the 4.9L 300CI inline 6. the install for the 4.9L was not that difficult at all, the factory alternator bracket already had mounting provisions for the larger alternator. I have to break up this...

Since this is a 2 wire (more modern gear reduction) starter, you may have one of two problems: (1) defective starter, (2) bad 12V main wire from battery+ to big lug on starter solenoid/poor connections at either point. Testing with a multimeter, set to DCV and first test to see what your...

Well the op 13+years ago wanted a daily driver and wanted it to sound cool. Put some glasspacks on a 4.9 and it will set off every car alarm within 2 blocks plus. And it will get decent economy. And you can't **** the motor. I have one on a 77 f250 and it moves the rig great, with the Borg...

If I remember correctly, if its a Borg warner t18 or t19 or new process (those were the 4 speed manuals offered in that time period) than they take 80w90, though the weight of gear oil can change based off hot or cold climate use. If its a Mazda m5od manual (the 5 speed) than it takes automatic...

If all turn lamps light up when the brake pedal is pressed it would indicate to me that the hazard switch is on, which may be half the problem. Ford's wiring for their turn signal and hazard circuit lacked back feed diodes like modern vehicles with combo stop/turn circuits have. Its normal for...

There's likely a body grounding issue here. Headlights and blower motor are the largest power consumers connected to the body. If turning on the headlights (or blower) causes most electronics to "Brown out' (turn signals quit working, radio, dash lights go dim etc) than i'd reckon a body/chassis...

what year specifically is your rig? right off the bat, i'd ask if there's a vac leak somewhere. i'd perhaps take a squirt bottle of water, get er started again and spray around any of the intake plenum to head, lower to upper plenum/throttle body to upper intake and see if you hear...

Hey there, hmmm. (yeah i'm not a big fan of the FiTec stuff either...) Well the filler neck should not be an issue. We are sure the mechanical condition of the engine is good? if you put on a vacuum gauge does it show steady vac and not jumpy like a overtightened/leaking intake valve? just...