I have a 1990 as well. let me know if you make this happen. the rear panels should be fairly easy, just trace the rear panels onto the diamond plate and cut carefully. Then drill your holes for mounting the speakers, armrest, mounting etc.
I agree wit miesk5 on the door panels, the curves...
Hey Chip,
Sorry to hear you're having the same issues i went through. The best way to get the right help is too start your own thread. Give us the full details and we'll be able to help you get your rear window back working again.
Cheers
Lick SeaBronc said, the brake light can be a sign of low brake fluid. I would guess that your pads/shoes are getting low and when you stomped on the brakes, the fluid was low enough to trigger the sensor. If the pads are ok, then probably a leak somewhere.
Did the ABS light go back off once...
I put the connector back together & nothing. So i unconnected the plug again and tested the motor (again) straight off the battery, go figure the motor works as it should.
I inspected the connector again and didn't find any signs of chafed or broken wires or corrosion. The only thing left...
Next i tested the drivers switch. reversing the positive and negative leads again. This time the voltage was slightly lower, but everything was around 11.5 volts. So the driver switch tested okay.
Alright, here are the voltages i got while testing the rear switch. I tested the up and down with positive and negative leads on both wires in the plug. All voltages were above 12. so it tests out ok.
I had a similar idle issue, not the starting aspect, but my idle would run at very high rpm's and after doing that for a while it would drop to a very low rpm and sometimes kill the motor.
Here's what i eventually did to fix mine:
- first issue, high idle in neutral & park, low idle in a D...
The connector that goes up to the lift motor in the tailgate. The male end on the left goes back to the switch in the tailgate. The female end on the right goes up to the lift motor. I plug into the female end when running off the battery. I tested off the male end to test the switches.
Correct, this last time i ran the test, it read 11.98 when i pressed up and had the positive on one pin and the negative on the other. When i pressed down on the switch it went back to 0. I kept the down active and switch the leads on the pins and it read 11.98 again. When i switched the...
Both switchs give me voltage at the last connector before the motor. When i plug in the connector and hit either switch i get nothing from the motor, no noise or movement. When i connect straight to the battery, the motor works as normal.
So it’s been a while since I've been on here, unfortunately life gets in the way of playing every now and then...
That being said, i've gotten back to working on my Bronco and can’t seem to get to the bottom of the tailgate window issue. Here's what I’ve done so far:
- Cleaned window tracks...
Well damn, been playing with everything the last two days, and the motor seems to be fine. I'm going to chase the tracks and make sure they havent rusted up in area's. Now i just need to get it back from the brother in-law, the steering gear box & clock spring went out while towing a...
So i tried the test where you hook wires up directly from the battery and it worked going in one direction so i stopped and reversed the wires to test the other direction. The motor moved the window for a second and then stopped. I thought one of my wires might have come undone, but checked...
So i was able to 'assist' the window all the way down and then all the way up. I would run a couple of inch's on its own and then need help for a couple inch's, run again for a couple inch's, and need a little help the last little bit.
I finally got the back panel off, and no vapor barrier and...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.