Rear window refuses to go up or down???

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Bngeejmpr

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Worked fine yesterday. Washed the car today now it doesn't. When I turn the key or press the button on the dash you can here the window tor kick on, then the window starts to struggle to move. It will move a couple of inches then stops, yet you can here the motor. Help.
 

Skitter302

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Might be worth checking for power at the plug behind the driver side tail light.
 

miesk5

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Yo Bngeejmpr,
As Skitter advised.

If same issue;
Inspect weatherstrip for grime, lack of lubrication. Clean ws with water/Dawn mixture, then clean water.

Ford recommends, "Use Silicone Lubricant C0AZ-19553-AA (jelly) or D7AZ-19553-AA (spray) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M13P4-A on the door and window weatherstrips whenever necessary. Silicone lubricant helps avoid weatherstrip squeaks and retards excess weatherstrip wear from chafing between the glass and the weatherstrip. It also helps to retain glass alignment by reducing friction between the glass frame and the rubber weatherstrip.
miesk5 note, test the silicone on a regular styrofoam cup first; if the cup gets funky or melts, then the can or tube contans oil, a regular occurrence now, esp if from China.

More tg **** info:
Use Multi-Purpose Grease or equivalent meeting Ford specifications ESR-M1C159-A and ESB-M1C106-B to lubricate door and tailgate hinges. Apply an even coat to all hinge pivot points as outlined in the maintenance schedules or when a binding or squeaking condition occurs..." I bought a can of Motorcraft
Multi-Purpose Grease @ Advance Auto

I use DuPont™ Non-Stick Dry Film Lubricant with Teflon™ on the flocked edges that hug the glass. See attached pic


"Take off the TG access cover and spray Tri-Flow in the tracks on either side so the regulator toggles slide up and down easy" by our late friend here JKossarides.

"The best grease for the slides & tracks is PTFE". by Steve

Is window regulator rusted badly? If so, clean & **** it with multi purpose grease.

Are Glass rollers ok? They may need to be replaced.

Ensure that the motor is mounted properly to the back of the regulator.

Tailgate could be mis-aligned. Inspect gaps between each side of the tailgate and the quarter panels. If the tailgate is too high or low, the latch jaws will cut into the striker bushings, so inspect them.


Tailgate Motor Rebuild wirh Dorman Roller kit and Regulator Removal with pics in a 92 @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threads/fixing-the-rear-window-motor.179496/

Tailgate Glass Roller Replacement @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threads/replacing-the-swivel-slide-and-rear-window.160291/


"... tgmotorwiring.jpg


All '80-96 t/g wiring runs from the dash switch (F2TZ-14529-A Motorcraft SW7071 ~$25~65) out the firewall along the frame to the rear bumper up to the L taillight and into the t/g. '80-86 have a large round 3-wire connector in the LHR taillight well; those with rear defrost also have a 1-wire connector. All years with rear defrost have a ground ring screwed to the body in the taillight well. I think '87-91 have the large round connector in front of the taillight AND a smaller round 4-wire connector inside the frame at the LHR body mount. '92-96 only have the frame connector.

Normal operation is as follows:

RAISE from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB, out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

RAISE from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch thru the UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

Note that in ALL cases, EVERY switch is used, and the circuit ALWAYS grounds at the same point." By Steve
 

GunnySutton

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Worked fine yesterday. Washed the car today now it doesn't. When I turn the key or press the button on the dash you can here the window tor kick on, then the window starts to struggle to move. It will move a couple of inches then stops, yet you can here the motor. Help.
I bet its the bushings your motor. Mine did the same and I took it apart. The bushings around the gear rotted and crumbled over time. I actually took the plastic pieces that come with a TV mounting hardware kit and cut them in half. Works perfectly. Wouldn't hurt either to clean and repack the gears with grease.
 

Lamps3

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Worked fine yesterday. Washed the car today now it doesn't. When I turn the key or press the button on the dash you can here the window tor kick on, then the window starts to struggle to move. It will move a couple of inches then stops, yet you can here the motor. Help.
Also something to check is if it jumped out of the track, or is hung up. It will take 2 people to check this!
 

BIG ACE

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Worked fine yesterday. Washed the car today now it doesn't. When I turn the key or press the button on the dash you can here the window tor kick on, then the window starts to struggle to move. It will move a couple of inches then stops, yet you can here the motor. Help.
I had the same problem, for me it was just slamming the tailgate sure titgh and it was back to normal. If it's not shut all the way it won't work.
 
OP
OP
B

Bngeejmpr

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Thanks for all the input. I was able to replace the window motor and get it running again. The former owner did a terrible install on the last one.
 

johnnyreb

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I bet its the bushings your motor. Mine did the same and I took it apart. The bushings around the gear rotted and crumbled over time. I actually took the plastic pieces that come with a TV mounting hardware kit and cut them in half. Works perfectly. Wouldn't hurt either to clean and repack the gears with grease.
You can also use epoxy to fix the broken plastic--if you cann,t find a replacement. I got some at Harbor Freight for about $2.oo and it worked real good and its strong too. I let it set over night and sanded it down when it was good and dry. Leave a little to cover the break and also put some on the ends and both sides. Thank you for serving our country and welcome back home.
 

GunnySutton

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Worked fine yesterday. Washed the car today now it doesn't. When I turn the key or press the button on the dash you can here the window tor kick on, then the window starts to struggle to move. It will move a couple of inches then stops, yet you can here the motor. Help.
When it doesn't work with the key at all check the latch on the drivers side in the tailgate. Sometimes it isnt seated all the way to make the connection. On your issue is sounds like the bushings inside the motor might be crumbled. Also like previously mentioned it could be off track. You can take the back panel off from the inside and roll the window out manually so you can see the track and motor. Be careful not to put any pressure on the glass. If I am not mistaken there are 3 bolts that hold the motor in place and unclip the wiring harness from the tailgate frame. Good trouble shooting trick I had was using my battery from my rechargeable drill and jumping the motor to see what it is doing in place before I took it completely out. There is a wiring harness disconnect half way down that wire from the motor in the tailgate.
 
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Worked fine yesterday. Washed the car today now it doesn't. When I turn the key or press the button on the dash you can here the window tor kick on, then the window starts to struggle to move. It will move a couple of inches then stops, yet you can here the motor. Help.
the motor in the tailgate is fairly easy to fix after you pull the panel off... or it may just need a good **** put on it and then i wd'ed the channel it slides in and sprayed inside the tailgate also, makes it slide a little easier, good luck... !!!
 

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