'89 Bronco Crank but no start reason?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

BenBaxter

New member
Joined
Mar 25, 2020
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Location
CA
I have a year 1989 5.0L EFI that will crank for days but refuses to turn over. I've been working on it for about 8 or 9 months now returning the engine to stock conditions, I've pulled the engine twice and replaced almost everything besides the pistons crank and camshaft. It does however have new heads pulled off of a 302 mustang (don't recall the year, believe it was mid 80s). All gaskets are new, most of the sensors are new (o2, MAP, TBP, PIP, IAC), EGR valve and the pipe line that runs into the lower intake manifold is new, and a couple other things. The main ones are the timing chain and gears are new and the distributor cap is new, aswell as the plug wires. everything else was on the truck and it was running, reason i took the engine out again was to change the timing chain and gears.

Now that you know what work has been done I'll tell you about the problem. She cranks with no problems but will not start. I've gone through the checklist and I have the basic three; air, fuel and spark.
I checked the spark on the coil wire and got a good visible spark, I then check cylinder #1 spark and that was good too.
I have fuel pressure and the electric pump primes just fine. I checked my injectors and injector pigtails with a multi meter and both read good. Also even after checking that I sprayed starter fluid into the intake and attempted a start with no luck.
Timing has been double, triple checked, firing order is as follows: 1 5 4 2 6 3 7 8. Rotor on the distributor spins good aswell.
Ran a compression test too because I couldn't find a problem, all cylinders were between 135-145 psi besides cylinder 6 which ran high at 158 twice, only thing strange with that which is somethin to look into but I don't think that's the reason shes not starting.

I've hit rock bottom here gents and I'm hoping somebody has an idea of whats goin on, somethin I've missed or some magical start my truck juice. Please ask questions if I left somethin out or if I need to clarify and I'll get back to you as soon as possible. Thanks much -Ben
 

Skitter302

Active member
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Nov 25, 2012
Messages
749
Reaction score
148
Location
WA
Looks like you have checked the list Of Air, Fuel, Compression and Spark.
I'm still wondering a few things, what is your fuel pressure at the fuel rail, and are your injectors opening.
 
OP
OP
B

BenBaxter

New member
Joined
Mar 25, 2020
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Location
CA
Looks like you have checked the list Of Air, Fuel, Compression and Spark.
I'm still wondering a few things, what is your fuel pressure at the fuel rail, and are your injectors opening.
I haven’t checked fuel pressure with an actual gauge, I have the schrader valve on the fuel rail, and when decompressed it shoots fuel out strong. I was talkin to a buddy of mine and he told me about havin the injector shoot into a cup to see if it’s actually goin through. I’ll be tryin that later today.
 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Oct 18, 2005
Messages
9,071
Reaction score
1,018
Location
Floating in the Pacific
Yo Ben,
For crank, but no start see https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/how-to-troubleshoot-a-no-start-1
Most parts stores have spark & fuel pressure testers available in their loan a tool program with refundable deposit
EEC:
See EEC IV Capacitor Replacement in a 90 by seedpress @ https://www.broncozone.com/threads/fuel-delivery-problem.20788/

Here are some PCM KILLER perpetrators and other causes:
Old leaky capacitors, see seedpress's link above
Smell around the PCM. If it smells like dead fish, it's bad.
Bad Intel 8061 chip or bad Intel 8361 memory chip
Bad resistors or Internal Voltage Regulator, see http://www.fuelinjectedford.com/images/eec085.gif by Ryan M
Burned PCM printed circuit board circuits (brown burn marks).
Water damage from cowl leaks, ESPECIALLY if you you have wet carpet or mat near driver kick panel; or on PCM Connector due to a bad hood seal near cowl panel, viewable with hood up.
The alternator could be generating an AC voltage spike due to bad diode(s) or supply Voltage Overloads.
I recommend bench-testing the alternator for voltage output and AC voltage ripple.
Thermal stress due to excessive heat and excessive vibration that causes sensitive parts to fail.
Bronco was jump started on reverse polarity.
Overheated PCM.
Corrosion or damage due to moisture is one of the main reasons for failure. Corrosion can enter through the wiring harness and moisture can enter by a failure in the seals in the PCM itself. This happens over a period of time (5 to 10 years) due to exposure to the elements.
□■□

Here is 1989 Ford Brono EVTM, Emissions (yellowish/red book cover) & Pre-Delivery Manuals, Partial via mrnewland1 in Google Drive @
1989 Service manual - Google Drive
Slow scrolling, so download for faster viewing and to see the table of contents, the search feature, etc.

1989 Bronco Dealer Brochure @ 1989 Ford Bronco

1989 Bronco Lubricant Specifications by Ford via Gary @ Lubricant Specifications
Al
 

Skitter302

Active member
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Nov 25, 2012
Messages
749
Reaction score
148
Location
WA
89 PCM's are easy to pull out, Don't have to remove the fender liner like on the aero nose Broncos.

Pull the neg battery terminal,
10mm socket to undo the 60pin eec connecter
pull out the Driver side door sill plate
remove the driver side kick panel
remove the 1 ***** holding in the PCM
the pcm cover is assembled using torque screws, using the correct size remove the metal cover and inspect for board damage.
See the post above on what to look for.
 

Nash

New member
Joined
Nov 10, 2006
Messages
4
Reaction score
1
Before you start jumping all over the place start with the easy stuff.
You need 40psi minimum at rail for the truck to run.
Buy a fuel pressure tester from harbor freight and ***** it on the rail.

I read your complete post, so if your positive the dist rotor is good, then alright.

Once you do a fuel pressure test, post your findings and I will guide you where to go from there.
 
OP
OP
B

BenBaxter

New member
Joined
Mar 25, 2020
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Location
CA
Yo Ben,
For crank, but no start see https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/how-to-troubleshoot-a-no-start-1
Most parts stores have spark & fuel pressure testers available in their loan a tool program with refundable deposit
EEC:
See EEC IV Capacitor Replacement in a 90 by seedpress @ https://www.broncozone.com/threads/fuel-delivery-problem.20788/

Here are some PCM KILLER perpetrators and other causes:
Old leaky capacitors, see seedpress's link above
Smell around the PCM. If it smells like dead fish, it's bad.
Bad Intel 8061 chip or bad Intel 8361 memory chip
Bad resistors or Internal Voltage Regulator, see http://www.fuelinjectedford.com/images/eec085.gif by Ryan M
Burned PCM printed circuit board circuits (brown burn marks).
Water damage from cowl leaks, ESPECIALLY if you you have wet carpet or mat near driver kick panel; or on PCM Connector due to a bad hood seal near cowl panel, viewable with hood up.
The alternator could be generating an AC voltage spike due to bad diode(s) or supply Voltage Overloads.
I recommend bench-testing the alternator for voltage output and AC voltage ripple.
Thermal stress due to excessive heat and excessive vibration that causes sensitive parts to fail.
Bronco was jump started on reverse polarity.
Overheated PCM.
Corrosion or damage due to moisture is one of the main reasons for failure. Corrosion can enter through the wiring harness and moisture can enter by a failure in the seals in the PCM itself. This happens over a period of time (5 to 10 years) due to exposure to the elements.
□■□

Here is 1989 Ford Brono EVTM, Emissions (yellowish/red book cover) & Pre-Delivery Manuals, Partial via mrnewland1 in Google Drive @
1989 Service manual - Google Drive
Slow scrolling, so download for faster viewing and to see the table of contents, the search feature, etc.

1989 Bronco Dealer Brochure @ 1989 Ford Bronco

1989 Bronco Lubricant Specifications by Ford via Gary @ Lubricant Specifications
Al
Hey man,
Awesome post and really helpful, I went through a similar checklist already for the no start.
I pulled out the ECU and opened it up and it didn’t look like any major damage, one capacitor had leaked some brown fluid it looked like, I’ll link a picture below.
It didn’t smell like a dead fish, more like crayons which I’m assuming is normal.

Other than the ECU I ran a fuel pressure test, 40 PSI so I’m right at the minimum.
I’ll move to check the alternator this weekend.

let me know what you think -Ben
 

Attachments

  • 7E28B6CC-162C-4DF1-AAC3-29FB6BA782ED.jpeg
    7E28B6CC-162C-4DF1-AAC3-29FB6BA782ED.jpeg
    2.2 MB · Views: 8
OP
OP
B

BenBaxter

New member
Joined
Mar 25, 2020
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Location
CA
Before you start jumping all over the place start with the easy stuff.
You need 40psi minimum at rail for the truck to run.
Buy a fuel pressure tester from harbor freight and ***** it on the rail.

I read your complete post, so if your positive the dist rotor is good, then alright.

Once you do a fuel pressure test, post your findings and I will guide you where to go from there.
Ran 40 PSI exactly from the rail. Rotor is new from the one that was on the truck when she ran before as is the cap, I broke the old cap by accident and the new cap came with a new rotor, I’ve been thinking of putting the old one back on just to see what happens but I’m still getting spark to the cylinders so I’m not thinkin that’s the problem.
 
OP
OP
B

BenBaxter

New member
Joined
Mar 25, 2020
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Location
CA
If you have air spark and fuel and crank and doesn't start but you get an occasional sputter....your timing is 180 deg. out.
Timing has been checked, rotor is on cylinder number one at TDC, I’ll post a picture of the timing chain and gears so you can see what it looked like before I put the cover back on.
 

Attachments

  • 72F746F7-BBC8-4879-ACAD-8CF607C2C62B.jpeg
    72F746F7-BBC8-4879-ACAD-8CF607C2C62B.jpeg
    1.7 MB · Views: 10
OP
OP
B

BenBaxter

New member
Joined
Mar 25, 2020
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Location
CA
My 90 bronco did same thing check your computer mine had a little burn out in it replaced with pik a part comp worked perfect
Yeah I’m thinkin the computer is the problem but part of me is skeptical because i don’t really understand how it works, and most people say they never fail. Let me know what you think about the picture below
 

Attachments

  • 038CF0E7-A544-4399-B41B-5C056E6A353D.jpeg
    038CF0E7-A544-4399-B41B-5C056E6A353D.jpeg
    2.1 MB · Views: 11

bratcop

New member
Joined
Sep 9, 2011
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
I'm going to chime in here, try a new/reman Motorcraft dist. Not cap and rotor, entirely new dist. The signal generator/pip thing in the dist.(under the rotor) goes bad causing a no start. Easy and free to swap from a running f150, same era. Phone a friend.
 

Skitter302

Active member
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Nov 25, 2012
Messages
749
Reaction score
148
Location
WA
Unless this is a shadow I see damage, area circled in red.

.jpg
 

Blueblooded

New member
Joined
Sep 22, 2004
Messages
13
Reaction score
4
I have a year 1989 5.0L EFI that will crank for days but refuses to turn over. I've been working on it for about 8 or 9 months now returning the engine to stock conditions, I've pulled the engine twice and replaced almost everything besides the pistons crank and camshaft. It does however have new heads pulled off of a 302 mustang (don't recall the year, believe it was mid 80s). All gaskets are new, most of the sensors are new (o2, MAP, TBP, PIP, IAC), EGR valve and the pipe line that runs into the lower intake manifold is new, and a couple other things. The main ones are the timing chain and gears are new and the distributor cap is new, aswell as the plug wires. everything else was on the truck and it was running, reason i took the engine out again was to change the timing chain and gears.

Now that you know what work has been done I'll tell you about the problem. She cranks with no problems but will not start. I've gone through the checklist and I have the basic three; air, fuel and spark.
I checked the spark on the coil wire and got a good visible spark, I then check cylinder #1 spark and that was good too.
I have fuel pressure and the electric pump primes just fine. I checked my injectors and injector pigtails with a multi meter and both read good. Also even after checking that I sprayed starter fluid into the intake and attempted a start with no luck.
Timing has been double, triple checked, firing order is as follows: 1 5 4 2 6 3 7 8. Rotor on the distributor spins good aswell.
Ran a compression test too because I couldn't find a problem, all cylinders were between 135-145 psi besides cylinder 6 which ran high at 158 twice, only thing strange with that which is somethin to look into but I don't think that's the reason shes not starting.

I've hit rock bottom here gents and I'm hoping somebody has an idea of whats goin on, somethin I've missed or some magical start my truck juice. Please ask questions if I left somethin out or if I need to clarify and I'll get back to you as soon as possible. Thanks much -Ben
 

Blueblooded

New member
Joined
Sep 22, 2004
Messages
13
Reaction score
4
take off the distributor cap and try and turn the rotor by hand if it spins the the roll pin that holds the gear on the bottom is sheared you will have to pull the distributor and replace the roil pin very cheap repair but i have had this happen to me more than once
 

Blueblooded

New member
Joined
Sep 22, 2004
Messages
13
Reaction score
4
I have a year 1989 5.0L EFI that will crank for days but refuses to turn over. I've been working on it for about 8 or 9 months now returning the engine to stock conditions, I've pulled the engine twice and replaced almost everything besides the pistons crank and camshaft. It does however have new heads pulled off of a 302 mustang (don't recall the year, believe it was mid 80s). All gaskets are new, most of the sensors are new (o2, MAP, TBP, PIP, IAC), EGR valve and the pipe line that runs into the lower intake manifold is new, and a couple other things. The main ones are the timing chain and gears are new and the distributor cap is new, aswell as the plug wires. everything else was on the truck and it was running, reason i took the engine out again was to change the timing chain and gears.

Now that you know what work has been done I'll tell you about the problem. She cranks with no problems but will not start. I've gone through the checklist and I have the basic three; air, fuel and spark.
I checked the spark on the coil wire and got a good visible spark, I then check cylinder #1 spark and that was good too.
I have fuel pressure and the electric pump primes just fine. I checked my injectors and injector pigtails with a multi meter and both read good. Also even after checking that I sprayed starter fluid into the intake and attempted a start with no luck.
Timing has been double, triple checked, firing order is as follows: 1 5 4 2 6 3 7 8. Rotor on the distributor spins good aswell.
Ran a compression test too because I couldn't find a problem, all cylinders were between 135-145 psi besides cylinder 6 which ran high at 158 twice, only thing strange with that which is somethin to look into but I don't think that's the reason shes not starting.

I've hit rock bottom here gents and I'm hoping somebody has an idea of whats goin on, somethin I've missed or some magical start my truck juice. Please ask questions if I left somethin out or if I need to clarify and I'll get back to you as soon as possible. Thanks much -Ben
i would pull out the distributor and reinstall making sur you are a compression ****** with #1 cylinder all the way up and rotor should be aligned with the #1 on the distributor cap. Also check the roll pin on the distributor gear to make sure it is not broken punch it out and check if is not broken just tap back into place. I have had these shear and spent alot of money trying to figure out for a 25 cent roll pin
 

chrlsful

Active member
Joined
Oct 13, 2009
Messages
426
Reaction score
214
Location
S. Amherst, MA 01002-1827
so many things have been done there's no way to guess. One must start over at the begining ina way. One of my sig (ford6?) sez something abt - make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt. Each subsystem (ele: charge, ignit, run; fuel; etc) needs check end to end. Sorry just mho. I'd do ign system 1st then (its ruled out) go onto fuel as "ign" is often missdiagnosed as fuel.
Diagn. is tough enuff; doing so remote like this? even more so~
 

Members online

No members online now.

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
22,509
Messages
135,880
Members
25,108
Latest member
Utahstroke
Top